{"id":930,"date":"2017-12-18T23:00:35","date_gmt":"2017-12-18T23:00:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/80-fragen.de\/?p=930"},"modified":"2018-01-21T03:08:49","modified_gmt":"2018-01-21T03:08:49","slug":"hohe-berge-el-cocuy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/?p=930","title":{"rendered":"Hohe Berge: El Cocuy"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Die Reise hat uns noch h\u00f6her hinausgef\u00fchrt \u2013 h\u00f6her in den Norden und h\u00f6her in die Berge. Wir sind in El Cocuy, einem weiteren dieser malerischen kleinen D\u00f6rfer, wie sie hier \u00fcberall verstreut zu liegen scheinen. Wieder wei\u00df get\u00fcnchte H\u00e4user mit roten Ziegeln, diesmal allesamt mit gr\u00fcnen, Sockeln, Fensterl\u00e4den und Balkonen. Der Ort ist im \u00fcblichen Schachbrettmuster angelegt und besteht aus h\u00f6chstens f\u00fcnf Stra\u00dfen in jede Richtung \u2013 ein Bergdorf umgeben von steilen, gr\u00fcnen H\u00e4ngen. Es liegt eine schier unglaubliche Stille in der klaren, k\u00fchlen Luft.<\/p>\n<style id=\"bwg-style-0\">    #bwg_container1_0 #bwg_container2_0 .bwg-container-0.bwg-standard-thumbnails {      width: 904px;              justify-content: center;        margin:0 auto !important;              background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00);            padding-left: 4px;      padding-top: 4px;      max-width: 100%;            }        #bwg_container1_0 #bwg_container2_0 .bwg-container-0.bwg-standard-thumbnails .bwg-item {    justify-content: flex-start;      max-width: 180px;          }    #bwg_container1_0 #bwg_container2_0 .bwg-container-0.bwg-standard-thumbnails .bwg-item a {       margin-right: 4px;       margin-bottom: 4px;    }    #bwg_container1_0 #bwg_container2_0 .bwg-container-0.bwg-standard-thumbnails .bwg-item0 {      padding: 0px;            background-color:rgba(255,255,255, 0.30);      border: 0px none #CCCCCC;      opacity: 1.00;      border-radius: 0;      box-shadow: 0px 0px 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src=\"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/imported_from_media_libray\/\/thumb\/DSC01381.jpg\"                   alt=\"DSC01381\"                   title=\"DSC01381\" \/>            <\/div>            <div class=\"\">                                                      <\/div>          <\/div>        <\/div>                        <\/a>              <\/div>            <div class=\"bwg-item\">        <a class=\"bwg-a  bwg_lightbox\"  data-image-id=\"183\" href=\"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/imported_from_media_libray\/\/DSC01361-1.jpg\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"no\">                <div class=\"bwg-item0 \">          <div class=\"bwg-item1 \">            <div class=\"bwg-item2\">              <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"skip-lazy bwg_standart_thumb_img_0 \"                   data-id=\"183\"                   data-width=\"\"                   data-height=\"\"                   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src=\"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/imported_from_media_libray\/\/thumb\/DSC01250-1.jpg\"                   alt=\"DSC01250\"                   title=\"DSC01250\" \/>            <\/div>            <div class=\"\">                                                      <\/div>          <\/div>        <\/div>                        <\/a>              <\/div>          <\/div>    <style>      \/*pagination styles*\/      #bwg_container1_0 #bwg_container2_0 .tablenav-pages_0 {\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\t\t\t\tfont-size: 12px;\t\t\t\tfont-family: segoe ui;\t\t\t\tfont-weight: bold;\t\t\t\tcolor: #666666;\t\t\t\tmargin: 6px 0 4px;\t\t\t\tdisplay: block;      }      @media only screen and (max-width : 320px) {      #bwg_container1_0 #bwg_container2_0 .displaying-num_0 {     \t display: none;      }      }      #bwg_container1_0 #bwg_container2_0 .displaying-num_0 {\t\t\t\tfont-size: 12px;\t\t\t\tfont-family: segoe ui;\t\t\t\tfont-weight: bold;\t\t\t\tcolor: 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'gallery', 0, '', '', load_more, '', 1);        }                    jQuery('.first-page-0').on('click', function () {              spider_page_0(this, 1, -2, 'numeric');              return false;            });            jQuery('.prev-page-0').on('click', function () {              spider_page_0(this, 1, -1, 'numeric');              return false;            });            jQuery('.next-page-0').on('click', function () {              spider_page_0(this, 1, 1, 'numeric');              return false;            });            jQuery('.last-page-0').on('click', function () {              spider_page_0(this, 1, 2, 'numeric');              return false;            });        \t\t\t\t\/* Change page on input enter. *\/        function bwg_change_page_0( e, that ) {          if (  e.key == 'Enter' ) {            var to_page = parseInt(jQuery(that).val());            var pages_count = jQuery(that).parents(\".pagination-links\").data(\"pages-count\");            var current_url_param = jQuery(that).attr('data-url-info');            if (to_page > pages_count) {              to_page = 1;            }\t \t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tspider_page_0(this, to_page, 0, 'numeric');\t\t\t\t\t\t\treturn false;\t\t\t\t\t\t          }          return true;        }        jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_0').on('click', function () {            spider_page_0(this, 1, 1, true);            return false;        });      <\/script>      <\/span>                <\/div>        <\/form>        <style>          #bwg_container1_0 #bwg_container2_0 #spider_popup_overlay_0 {          background-color: #000000;          opacity: 0.70;          }          <\/style>        <div id=\"bwg_spider_popup_loading_0\" class=\"bwg_spider_popup_loading\"><\/div>        <div id=\"spider_popup_overlay_0\" class=\"spider_popup_overlay\" onclick=\"spider_destroypopup(1000)\"><\/div>        <input type=\"hidden\" id=\"bwg_random_seed_0\" value=\"667020239\">                <\/div>    <\/div>    <script>      if (document.readyState === 'complete') {        if( typeof bwg_main_ready == 'function' ) {          if ( jQuery(\"#bwg_container1_0\").height() ) {            bwg_main_ready(jQuery(\"#bwg_container1_0\"));          }        }      } else {        document.addEventListener('DOMContentLoaded', function() {          if( typeof bwg_main_ready == 'function' ) {            if ( jQuery(\"#bwg_container1_0\").height() ) {             bwg_main_ready(jQuery(\"#bwg_container1_0\"));            }          }        });      }    <\/script>    \n<p>El Cocuy ist Ausgangsort f\u00fcr Wanderer, die den Nationalpark \u201eSierra Nevada El Cocuy\u201c erkunden wollen, wo die wirklich hohen, von Gletschern bedeckten Berge auf \u00fcber 5.300m aufragen \u2013 h\u00f6her als alles, was es in Europa gibt. Da wollen wir hin.<\/p>\n<p>Nach einem Tag und einer Nacht in El Cocuy fahren wir mit einem Jeep noch weiter hinauf in die Berge, laufen die letzten Kilometer zu unserer Unterkunft zu Fu\u00df, um uns an die H\u00f6he von immerhin schon 3500m zu gew\u00f6hnen. Weit verstreut liegen die H\u00f6fe. Auf den steilen H\u00e4ngen weiden K\u00fche und Schafe. Die Bauern bewegen sich auf Pferden oder Motor\u00e4dern fort. Mann, Frau, Kind \u2013 alle tragen Ponchos aus Schafwolle, die Jugendlichen auch \u00fcber Jeans, Kapuzenshirt und Turnschuhen. Der Poncho ist neben dem breitkrempigen Hut das wichtigste Utensil, denn am Tag knallt die Sonne (zumindest jetzt im Sommer) und wenn diese zwischen f\u00fcnf und sechs am Abend untergeht wird es bitterkalt.\u00a0 Die Bauern f\u00fchren in dieser H\u00f6he ein karges Leben, das uns aber unendlich friedlich und gen\u00fcgsam scheint. Die Landwirtschaft bietet ein bescheidenes Auskommen &#8211; die Kommune sorgt f\u00fcr die Landbev\u00f6lkerung zumindest insoweit, dass alle H\u00f6fe an das Stromnetz angeschlossen sind und alle Kinder in die Schule gehen k\u00f6nnen \u2013 und m\u00fcssen.<\/p>\n<p>Irgendwo in der Landschaft steht eine kleine Kapelle, daneben ein \u00fcberdachter Sportplatz und ein H\u00e4uschen mit einem kleinen Laden \u2013 unsere Unterkunft f\u00fcr heute. Hier treffen sich am Sonntag die Bauern aus der Umgebung nach dem Gottesdienst auf ein Schw\u00e4tzchen und ein Bier \u2013 nat\u00fcrlich alle in Poncho und Hut.<\/p>\n<p>Um f\u00fcnf Uhr morgens brechen wir auf; ein langer, steiler Aufstieg in einer H\u00f6he, wo uns schon manchmal die Atemluft knapp wird \u2013 daf\u00fcr aber durch eine grandiose Landschaft: \u201eP\u00e1ramo\u201c nennt sich diese typisch andine Vegetationszone mit ihrem ganz eigenen Bewuchs, v.a. den seltsamen Frailejones. Um neun Uhr erreichen wir bei brennender Sonne und eisigem Wind unser Ziel, die Laguna Grande am Rande des Gletschers auf 4.600m H\u00f6he (Nat\u00fcrlich schmelzen auch diese Gletscher rapide ab und sollen Wissenschaftlern zufolge in 10 Jahren bereits ganz verschwunden sein.)<\/p>\n<p>Das Betreten der Gletscher und damit auch der Aufstieg auf die diversen Gipfel ist zu Simons gro\u00dfem Bedauern in diesem Schutzgebiet verboten \u2013 und zwar, weil der ewige Schnee f\u00fcr die dort ans\u00e4ssigen Ur-Einwohner, den Stamm der U\u2019wa heilig ist. Der Staat hat in langwierigen Verhandlungen mit den U\u2019wa ein Abkommen geschlossen, das uns lediglich erlaubt auf drei ausgew\u00e4hlten Pfaden bis an den Gletscherrand zu gehen. Mir pers\u00f6nlich reicht das v\u00f6llig aus \u2013 am spannendsten sind Landschaft und Vegetation ohnehin, bevor wir in die Eis- und Felszone vorsto\u00dfen. (Ganz anders die \u00fcberwiegend kolumbianischen Besucher des Nationalparks, denen es v.a. darum geht, am Gletscherrand einmal im Leben Schnee zu sehen und anzufassen\u2026)<\/p>\n<p>Au\u00dferdem verlangt das Reglement des Nationalparks, dass alle Wanderer einen Guide mitnehmen m\u00fcssen. F\u00fcr die Orientierung h\u00e4tten wir den 18-j\u00e4hrgen Jhon (sic!) nicht gebraucht \u2013 eine interessante <a href=\"http:\/\/80-fragen.de\/?p=923\">Begegnung<\/a> war es aber allemal.<\/p>\n<style id=\"bwg-style-1\">    #bwg_container1_1 #bwg_container2_1 .bwg-container-1.bwg-standard-thumbnails {      width: 904px;              justify-content: center;        margin:0 auto !important;              background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.00);            padding-left: 4px;      padding-top: 4px;      max-width: 100%;            }        #bwg_container1_1 #bwg_container2_1 .bwg-container-1.bwg-standard-thumbnails .bwg-item {    justify-content: flex-start;      max-width: 180px;          }    #bwg_container1_1 #bwg_container2_1 .bwg-container-1.bwg-standard-thumbnails .bwg-item a {       margin-right: 4px;       margin-bottom: 4px;    }    #bwg_container1_1 #bwg_container2_1 .bwg-container-1.bwg-standard-thumbnails .bwg-item0 {      padding: 0px;            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src=\"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/imported_from_media_libray\/\/thumb\/DSC01345-1.jpg\"                   alt=\"DSC01345\"                   title=\"DSC01345\" \/>            <\/div>            <div class=\"\">                                                      <\/div>          <\/div>        <\/div>                        <\/a>              <\/div>            <div class=\"bwg-item\">        <a class=\"bwg-a  bwg_lightbox\"  data-image-id=\"157\" href=\"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/photo-gallery\/imported_from_media_libray\/\/DSC01328-1.jpg\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"no\">                <div class=\"bwg-item0 \">          <div class=\"bwg-item1 \">            <div class=\"bwg-item2\">              <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"skip-lazy bwg_standart_thumb_img_1 \"                   data-id=\"157\"                   data-width=\"\"                   data-height=\"\"                   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jQuery('.bwg_load_btn_1').on('click', function () {            spider_page_1(this, 1, 1, true);            return false;        });      <\/script>      <\/span>                <\/div>        <\/form>        <style>          #bwg_container1_1 #bwg_container2_1 #spider_popup_overlay_1 {          background-color: #000000;          opacity: 0.70;          }          <\/style>        <div id=\"bwg_spider_popup_loading_1\" class=\"bwg_spider_popup_loading\"><\/div>        <div id=\"spider_popup_overlay_1\" class=\"spider_popup_overlay\" onclick=\"spider_destroypopup(1000)\"><\/div>        <input type=\"hidden\" id=\"bwg_random_seed_1\" value=\"1960607058\">                <\/div>    <\/div>    <script>      if (document.readyState === 'complete') {        if( typeof bwg_main_ready == 'function' ) {          if ( jQuery(\"#bwg_container1_1\").height() ) {            bwg_main_ready(jQuery(\"#bwg_container1_1\"));          }        }      } else {        document.addEventListener('DOMContentLoaded', function() {          if( typeof bwg_main_ready == 'function' ) {            if ( jQuery(\"#bwg_container1_1\").height() ) {             bwg_main_ready(jQuery(\"#bwg_container1_1\"));            }          }        });      }    <\/script>    \n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Die Reise hat uns noch h\u00f6her hinausgef\u00fchrt \u2013 h\u00f6her in den Norden und h\u00f6her in die Berge. Wir sind in&#8230;  <a class=\"excerpt-read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/?p=930\" title=\"Read Hohe Berge: El Cocuy\">Read more &raquo;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":940,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8,16],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-930","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-die-reise","category-kolumbien"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/930","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=930"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/930\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":981,"href":"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/930\/revisions\/981"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/940"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=930"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=930"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/80-fragen.de\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=930"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}